Spider Silk

Spider silk is incredibly tough and is stronger by weight than steel.  Quantitatively, spider silk is five times stronger than steel of the same diameter.  It has been suggested that a Boeing 747 could be stopped in flight by a single pencil-width strand and spider silk is almost as strong as Kevlar, the toughest man-made polymer.  It is finer than the human hair (most threads are a few microns in diameter) and is able to keep its strength below -40°C.  The toughest silk is the dragline silk from the Golden Orb-Weaving spider (Nephilia clavipes), so-called because it uses silk of a golden hue to make orb webs.

              Spider silk is also very elastic and capture silk (sticky silk for catching prey) remains unbroken after being stretched 2-4 times its original length.  Spider silk is tougher, more elastic and more waterproof than silkworm silk so it could have a much wider range of applications.  It is simple to see why spider silk is of such interest to materials chemists since new ultra-strong  fibres based on the silk could be developed.

                                                                                   

Uses

Spiders use silk for a variety of functions:

• Swathing silk for the wrapping and immobilisation of prey. 
• Webs for catching prey using sticky silk - it is elastic to prevent the prey from rebounding off the web.
• Draglines which are used to connect the spider to the web, as safety lines in case a spider should fall and as the non-sticky spokes of the web.  Dragline silk is the strongest kind of silk because it must support the weight of the spider.
• Parachuting or ballooning which is used to aid the dispersal of young and to find new areas as a food source.  Silk is released and is caught by the wind to lift the spider up into the air - flying spiders!
• Shelters such as burrows or nests
• Egg-sacs
• Mating: male spiders weave sperm webs on which they deposit sperm and subsequently transfer it to their front palps, ready for placing on a females genital organs.  Some species make a web and coat it with sex pheromones to attract a mate.

Production

There are seven types of silk produced by seven silk glands.  A single spider does not possess all seven glands but has at least three if it is male (dragline, attachment and swathing silk) or four if it is female.  The additional one is for egg sac silk.  The seven types of gland are:

• Achniform gland: swathing silk.
• Cylindriform gland: egg sac silk.
• Ampullate glands (major and minor): non-sticky dragline silk.  Silk from the minor ampullate gland is only half as strong as that from the major gland.
• Pyriform gland: attaching threads - attachment discs are made which anchor a thread to a surface or another thread.
• Flagelliform gland: core fibres of sticky silk.
• Aggregate gland: outer part of sticky silk - droplets of an adhesive substance are deposited along the threads.

The glands are located on the lower side of the abdomen (see diagram below) and contain a watery fluid known as 'dope'.  This fluid passes through to the spinneret via a multitude of microscopic tubes where water recovery and solidification begins.  Fluid from different glands can lead to the same spinneret so silk with specific properties required for a particular function can be produced.  There are usually three pairs of spinnerets but this can vary between 1 and 4 pairs depending on the species.  The substance exits through the spiggots which are mobile, finger-like protrusions and the resulting silk emerges as a solid.  There are many spigots so many fibres are bound together like a cable.  The diameter of a single fibre is controlled by the muscular action of a valve.  The faster and tighter the strand is drawn, the stronger the silk.

Muga Silk

One of the rarest Silks in the world is the Muga silk from Assam. It is produced only in Assam and nowhere else. The fact that sets this Silk apart from all other versions is that it is totally golden yellow in color. The word `Muga’ means yellowish in Assamese. The source of it is the Muga Silkworm which goes back to the age of the dinosaurs and is so sensitive in nature that it cannot tolerate even the most minimum of pollution levels. It is made from the semi-cultivated silkworm named Antheraea assamensis. It is organic and natural and has the strongest natural fiber.

The source of it is the Muga Silkworm which goes back to the age of the dinosaurs and is so sensitive in nature that it cannot tolerate even the most minimum of pollution levels. It is made from the semi-cultivated silkworm named Antheraea assamensis. It is organic and natural and has the strongest natural fiber.

It is the most expensive type of Silk and is used for making products only for the upper segments of the market. One of the major highlights of Muga Silk is its longevity. It is said that generally, a Muga Silk fabric outlives the wearer.

It is known for its resilience. It can be given a fine texture by dry ironing it in a damp state or it can attain a crushed look by not getting ironed. This is one unique fabric where the golden luster increases with age. Any type of embroidery by a thread can be done on it. Most importantly, while it has got a naturally golden luster and does not need any dyeing to be done, it is still quite compatible with most dyes.

Origin and History

As per conflicting records, the cultivation and weaving of Muga Silk have been there for a very long time but the golden age can be traced to the period between 1228-1828 during the reign of the Ahom rulers. The Ahom rulers patronized the growth of Muga Silk as an industry. They had decreed that all the higher officials of the kingdom were to adorn only clothes made from Muga Silk.

Many of the looms of Muga Silk were under the royal supervision and were known as Rajaghoria looms.

Present day Scenario 

Primarily, bulk of the Muga Silk cultivation takes place in the West Garo hills of Assam and a little bit is also done in the west Khasi hills of Assam which are the only homes to the silkworms – Som and Soalu which generate the Muga Silk thread.

Typically, in the Garo hill region, a Silk farmer needs to have access to at least 1 acre of land through which he can cultivate about 400 grams of Muga silk at a go.

Dresses made out of this Silk sport rich embroidery in the forms of flowers, leaves, trees and Bihu structures lending a unique and fabulous look. The traditional use of this Silk has been to make attire for women called `mehelka – sadar’ which is akin to a saree in Assam and for making kurtas for men.

An interesting equation to note is that it takes about 1000 cocoons to generate 125 grams of Silk and around 1000 grams of Silk is needed for a saree. Over and above, the time taken to make one single saree is about two months right from rearing the silkworm to the finished product. The weaving process of the Muga silk saree alone takes up one week to ten days to complete.

Faces behind the Fabric

It is mainly the people of the Garo community who engage in the production of Muga Silk. A special mention has to be made for Miss Vivian Sangma. She singlehanded established a post cocoon Silk industry at Tura in the west Garo hills of Assam where the entire process of silk production into yarn and the final fabric takes place. Her firm has been bestowed the Silk Mark Certification by the Central Silk Board, Government of India.

Varieties

A whole lot of variety is available with Muga silk. It is used in making hats, caps, scarf’s, wraps, stoles, quilts, bridal wear, upholstery, sarees and kurtas.

Innovations

Since people do not wear Mehelka-Sadar in urban areas,  a regular 5 yard Muga silk saree is made to appeal to them.

Occasion dressing

While Mehelka-Sadar is essentially a bridal wear in two pieces, another version called `Reeha’ is worn during festivals and religious ceremonies. Otherwise, sarees made of Muga Silk are prized processions and are worn for very special occasions such as formal functions.

Maintenance

Muga Silk fabrics can be washed in cold water gently with a mild detergent.

Global wear-ability

Already popular in USA, Europe, South Africa and the Middle East, the next stop for Muga Silk seems to be Japan where the designers are using it to make kimonos and other traditional Japanese dresses.

Eri Silk

While it is majorly found in the North East of India, Eri is also known as Errandi and Endi Silk. The word ‘Eri’ is inspired from the Assamese word ‘era’ which means castor. The silk worms that produce Eri silk feed on castor plants, hence deriving the name ‘eri’.  Eri Silk is one of the purest forms of Silk that is a true and genuine product of the Samia cynthia ricini worm. Eri Silk is called the father of all forms of cultured and textured Silks. It is the only domesticated silk produced in India, as the process doesn’t involve any killing of the silk worm, also naming Eri silk as ‘Ahimsa (ahinsa) silk or fabric of peace.

Origin and History

Biologically named as Ailanthus Silk moth, this silkworm or known as a caterpillar is generally found in China and Japan. Prominently found in the south Asian regions these Silk moths are predominantly found over the wild trees and shrubs of shorea Robusta and Terminalia.

Eri Silk being the most textured Silk needs a huge amount of preservation and care strategy. It has shorter fibers’ than the usual cultured Silks. The shorter fibers of Eri silk make it less durable. It is indeed one of the softest and purest forms of Silk which is fancied by almost all the Silk lovers and is a staple in every fashionistas’ wardrobe. The silkworms give the Eri Silk a dull yellow, gold like sheen.

Artists Behind the Fabric

Eri Silk has become the face of Indian Silk. Around forty percent of Eri Silk is produced in Nagaland, Meghalaya, Manipur, Bihar, Orrisa, Karnataka, Assam, Andhra Pradesh and Jharkhand. The bulk of Eri Silk production gives Assam the name of Eri Silk state.

Making

In order to open Eri silk in its original, fluffy form, it is either boiled with soap water or through scouring (cleaning) it in a large tank through the process of hydro-extraction. A coating of ‘sericin’ gum on the filament of the cocoon prevents it from opening with ease. This process is thus known as degumming.

The degummed cocoons are then opened in cocoon opener which helps in further cutting the eri silk fibres to the appropriate length. Fiber Cutting is the next part of the process which involves the cutting of eri silk. Manual cutting is inefficient, hence the ‘twin blade cutter’, modified for eri silk cutting is suitable. Next, ‘Carding’ parallelizes and individualizes the eri silk fibres to maintain quality of the output. It is also essential to open and free the cut eri silk from remnants of insects. Series of gilling and drawing operation make the carded sliver fibres parallel and uniform. The next step involves removing shorts fibers present in the gilled uncombed eri silk sliver.

Eri Weaver (Source: ritikamittal blog)

Variety

It is most famous for silk drapes and silk saris remain the most significant output of Eri Silk. Besides this, it is used for Orissa’s Pattachitras and Kantha stitches of Bengal, and has also been extensively used as a base material for large varieties of handicrafts, clothing and texturing. Although the original colors of the Eri silk remain dull yellow gold, the inception of chemical dyes enables the use of different colors which makes it more versatile.

Sources of Inspiration

What makes Eri Silk distinctively unique and the best amongst the vast ranges of Silk counterparts is its beauty that is added upon by texturing. Much like the Mulberry Silk, the Eri Silk is also textured, but the texturing done over the Eri silk is finer and much more than the mulberry Silk, which ultimately adds up to the breathtaking yellow sheen of the Tussar silk.

Chronicles of the future Foretold

History always highlights the fact that Silk has remained a rich or upper class material, but with the development of civilization and discoveries and new inventions made, the misconception broke and Silk has been made available to all groups of people now. Due to its eco-friendly production process (where the Silk is obtained without killing of any living creature), it is the most preferred fabric for Buddhists monks and Vegans.

Wearing Eri or Endi Silk

For any occasion that requires sophistication and a touch of regality, a saree or dress made out of Eri Silk would be the perfect pick for any party or festive event. As far as jewellery goes, one should opt for a more minimal approach. Adornments made out of either Gold or Copper would go best with the ethereal nature of the Eri Silk fabric.

Maintenance

As they are carved out of shorter threads they are not extremely durable, besides the strength of the Eri silk is lost when soaked in water, therefore it is advisable that you get your Eri silk apparels dry cleaned. Since it is breathable it is suggested not to store your clothes in plastic. This shall corrode the effect and shine of your Eri silk apparel.

Mulberry Silk

Mulberry Silk is 100% Natural, Odorless and Hypoallergenic

One of the unique benefits of Mulberry silk is that it is 100% natural, odorless and hypoallergenic. Mulberry silk contains a natural protein called sericin that reduces the possibility of an allergic reaction. Therefore, Mulberry silk bedding is a healthy and safe choice for those with allergies.

It is important to watch out for silk-filled bedding products such as pillows and duvets. Often times, they are filled with a mix of polyester and silk or Habotai silk and/or mixed silks. When you are shopping for silk-filled bedding online, make sure you do your research to ensure you are getting the highest quality product.  At Manito Silk, our  silk-filled duvets  and silk-filled pillows are filled with 100% Mulberry silk. We never fill our silk duvets or pillows with anything else!

All of Manito Silk's Products are 100% Pure Mulberry Silk

Shop all of our Mulberry silk products to see for yourself the difference that using the highest quality silk makes. If you have any questions, we'd be happy to help! Contact Manito Silk today to learn more about all of our silk products.

Mulberry Silk vs. Wild Silk

Not all silk is created equal. Why Mulberry silk is superior to its' Wild silk counterparts, Eri silk, Muga silk & Tussar silk.

What is Mulberry Silk?

People have been using silkworm cocoons to produce silk for more than five millennia. As a result, it is no coincidence that silkworms happen to be one of the small number of insect species that have been domesticated over the ages.

In much the same manner as other domesticated animals, people have bred and continue to breed domesticated silkworms for their excellence in producing quality silk.

The results of these efforts can be seen in the characteristics of the creatures, including:

1. healthier larvae,
2. bigger cocoon sizes, and even
3. resistance to common maladies.

However, that is not all.

Domesticated silkworms, like the Bombyx mori (the type of silkworm used in Mulberry silk production) live pampered lives in comparison to their wild counterparts. Each silkworm is provided with plentiful food in the form of white Mulberry leaves in a controlled environment where nothing can either startle or cause harm to them. It is this combination of nature and nurture that results in the best silk in the world, which is called Mulberry silk.

What is Wild Silk?

There are more than 500 species of wild silkworms in the world, although only a few are used to produce cloth. Silk produced from wild silkworms, called Wild silk usually produce a tougher and rougher silk than that from domesticated Bombyx mori silkworms used in the production of Mulberry silk. Wild silk is usually harvested after the moths have left the cocoons, which cut the threads in the process.

In contrast to their domesticated counterpart Mulberry silk, Eri silk, Muga silk, and Tasar silk are all called Wild silk because these silks are not produced in the same type of controlled environment as Mulberry silk. This results in silk of lesser quality for a number of reasons:

1. Wild silk is much more difficult to process than Mulberry silk. In part, this is because most wild silk is harvested once the silkworms have emerged from their cocoons, meaning that the silk used to make said cocoons has been separated into multiple pieces. This is in stark contrast to domesticated silkworms, which have their cocoons harvested earlier so that they can be unraveled into single strands of silk. Furthermore, the cocoons of wild silkworms sometimes have mineral-strengthened shells, which can complicate processing them for human use.
2. Wild silk is not as pleasing to the senses. Most wild silk tends to be rougher than Mulberry silk, something that is particularly noticeable because their harvesting method makes it complicated and time-consuming to process them into long, smooth strands.
3. Finally, Wild silk is not uniform. Not only can this affect the appearance and texture of the silk, but it is also difficult to ensure a standard of excellence for pieces made using the fabric.

There can be no doubt that Mulberry silk is superior to its Wild silk. It is finer and smoother, making it more luxurious and smooth feeling upon your skin. Better still, Mulberry silk is both strong and long-lasting, making it the silk of choice for individuals interested in both luxury and outstanding value.

Experience the luxury of superior Mulberry silk for yourself. You can purchase a Mulberry Silk Pillowcase or indulge in a luxurious Mulberry Silk Sheet Set.

Types Of Silk

Most Expensive Sarees In The World

Mulberry Silk

Mulberry silk is the most common and widely used silk around the world. It accounts for about 90% of the world’s supply. The bulk of silk produced around the world comes from the mulberry variety. Thus, the term “silk” generally refers to the silk from a mulberry worm. This type of silk is produced by the Bombyx mori silkworm who feed on mulberry bushes. hence the name. The silkworms are entirely domesticated and reared indoor. Mulberry silk is popular around the world, though especially in China, Japan, and Korea. The production of the silk involves the killing of the worms in their cocoons to extract the silk fiber. The disadvantage of using mulberry silk is that it requires extra care to maintain its smooth texture.

Tussar Silk

Tasar or tussah silk is a type of wild silk produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry worm. The silk has a feel and quality different from the mulberry silk. It is produced from a Tasar silkworm which belongs to the genus Antheraea. The Chinese Tasar silkworm produces the largest quantity of non-mulberry silk followed by the Indian Tasar silkworm. The Japanese Tasar silkworm produces a green silk thread. Most of the taser silk are copperish in color and are mainly used in furnishing and interior since they are the strongest fibers in the world. Tasar silk is produced by reeling the cocoons of the Tasar silkworm. The silk is available in its natural form since it is tough to dye.

Eri Silk

Eri silk, also known as the Endi or Errandi silk, is a creamy white-colored silk. It is derived from two domesticated species of silkworms known as Samia ricini and Philosamia ricin. Eri silk is a peace silk since it is spun from the cocoon of the silkworm without destroying the worm unlike mulberry and Tasar silk. The castor silkworm which produces Eri silk is reared on the castor oil plant. The silk has a matt appearance of wool or cotton. The castor silkworm and the mulberry silkworm are the only domesticated silkworms with both relying on human intervention to develop. Eri silk is durable and makes great material for clothing and soft furnishing such as curtains. However, the silk is heavy to wash and may harbor microorganisms since it is easier for them to stick to the fabric.

Pure Silk Sarees Of India

Muga Silk

Muga silk is golden yellow in color. The Muga silkworm also belongs to the same genus as the Tasar silkworm. The silkworm is semi-domesticated, especially in Assam and feeds on aromatic leaves of soalu plants. Muga silk is known for the glossy texture and its golden brown color. The silk is limited in supply and is only used in the state of Assam for making traditional dresses, especially for the royal families. Its high quality makes it popular for making sarees and chaddars. Mass production of muga silk is possible since its production is eco-friendly and the silkworm does not require delicate care. The porosity of the muga silk can sometimes be a disadvantage as it sometimes limits bleaching.

Spider Silk

Spider silk is a non-insect silk variety that is soft and fine in texture. It is the most difficult silk to produce as spiders cannot be bred like silkworms and do not produce as much yarn as silkworms. Spider silk is produced from Madagascan species including Nephila madagascarensis. The accumulated fiber is reeled from the abdominal segment four or five times a month. The cost of producing the silk is so high that it is not used in the textile industry. However, it is one of the most durable types of silk use in the production of bulletproof vests, telescopes, optical instrument, and wear-resistant clothes.

Want To know the most expensive sarees in the world click here.
most expensive sarees.

Tussar Silk

Tussar silk (alternatively spelled as tussah, tushar, tassar,tussore, tasar, tussur, tusser and also known as (Sanskrit) kosa silk) is produced from larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus Antheraea, including A. assamensis, A. mylitta, A. paphia, A. pernyi, A. roylei and A. yamamai. These silkworms live in the wild forests in trees belonging to Terminalia species and Shorea robusta as well as other food plants like jamun and oak found in South Asia, eating the leaves of the trees they live on. Tussar silk is valued for its rich texture and natural deep gold colour, and varieties are produced in many countries, including China, India, Japan, and Sri Lanka.

Process

In order to kill the silkworms, the cocoons are dried in the sun. A variation of the process exists in which the silkworms are allowed to leave before the cocoons are soaked in boiling water to soften the silk and then reeled. Single-shelled, oval-shaped cocoons are collected and then boiled to extract the silk yarn. Boiling is a very important part in the manufacturing of silk, as it softens the cocoon and makes the extraction of silk easier. In conventional sericulture, the cocoons are boiled with the larvae still inside; however, if the cocoons are boiled after the larvae have left them, the silk made is then called "non-violent silk" or "Ahimsa silk". In China, the silks are given different names when silkworms are reared on different plants, as the diet of the silkworms has an effect on the quality of the silk. For example, silk from larvae on the wild mulberry is called zhe, while those on the oak Quercus dentata produce hu.

Tussar silk is considered more textured than cultivated Bombyx or "mulberry" silk, but it has shorter fibres, which makes it less durable. It has a dull gold sheen. As most of the cocoons are collected from the forest, it is considered by many as a forest product.

Production in India

India is the second largest producer of tussar silk and the exclusive producer of Indian tussar (also known as tropical tussar), which is largely tended to by tribals. Much of it is produced in Bhagalpur (where it is called Bhagalpur silk), Bihar and Malda district of West Bengal. Tussar silk is also used for Orissa's pattachitras and West Bengal's  stitches. Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh also produce tussar silk. In recent years, the state of Jharkhand has emerged as the biggest producer of tussar silk.

Tussar Silk Sarees

Bhagalpur silk

Main article: Bhagalpur Sari

The tussar silk weaving industry in Bhagalpur, more than a century old, has about 30,000 handloom weavers working on some 25,000 handlooms. The total value of annual trade is around Rs. 100 crores, about half of which comes from exports.

Uses

The saree is the most important tussar silk product although it is also used as the base material for handicrafts, furnishing fabrics, and stitched apparel.

With the introduction of chemical dyes, the range of available colours has increased significantly. There are fashion designers who use tussar silk in their creations. The precisely finished and designer garments produced from tussar silk are known globally and are exported worldwide.

Top 10 Most Expensive Sarees

1. Banarasi Sarees From Uttar Pradesh

Banarasi saree from oldest living city of Varanasi or Banaras are among the best and finest sarees in India, known for gold and silver zari work, embroidery with intricate design and offers four main varieties of Banarasi saree pure silk, Organza, Georgette and Shattir.

2. Kanjeevaram From Tamil Nadu

Well known as ” The queen of sarees”, Kanjeevaram sarees are made from a traditionally woven silk found from the region of Kanjeevaram.These are one of the costliest sarees in India which are extremely popular due to their bright color and texture.They give a much cultured and elegant look.

3. Kasavu Saree From Kerala

This Kasavu saree was basically only a mundu (dhoti), a blouse and a stole worn by ladies. This traditional saree is also famous but it’s another name ” Settu saree”.In the present time, Kasavu saree is an enhanced version which is featured c by a thick golden border, woven with threads of real gold .This woven gold on the saree makes it unique and expensive at the same time.

4. Paithani Saree From Maharashtra

The handwoven silk saree,Paithani is originated from Aurangabad. The zari border,ultra fine motifs and the continual peacock design gives the saree a sophisticated and elegant look. Paithani sarees have high prices due to it’s material qulaity and the embroideries on it.

5. Sambalpuri Saree From Odisha

Sambalpuri saree is a traditional handwoven saree. It is a delicate weave of different techniques in which the threads are dyed before use. The process of staining before weaving gives a shiny and radiant colour which never fades. Due to it’s expensive cloth material and handicraft of workers the saree is sold in lakhs making it one of the costliest in India.

6. Chanderi/Kosa Saree From Madhya Pradesh/Chhattishgarh

Chanderi Saree or sari is made in Chanderi of Madhya Pradesh and produced from three kinds of fabric: pure silk, Chanderi cotton and silk cotton, among the finest Saree in India and are known for gold and silver zari.

7. Muga Silk Saree From Assam

The Muga silk sarees are one of the most expensive sarees which are popular from Assam. They are made by a very fine qulaity of silk which is produced by a larvae that feeds on mainly two special leaves. The resulting silk obtained from this larvae is known to be one the best and unique. It has a very bright durable texture.These golden threads of the Muga can be found only in Assam.

Assam silk is a wild silks from the silkworm Antheraea assamensis which is endemic to Assam only and the industry is now centered in Sualkuchi.

8. Bomkai Saree From Odisha

Famous by it’s another name,Sonepuri silk, is a great piece of art with ikat, embroidery and intricate thread work, which is all woven into one admirable nine-yard wonder .These sarees are found in both silk and cotton which gives an ideal look for festive wear. Due to it’s expensive embroideries these sarees are available in high prices.

9. Pochampally Saree From Telangana

Pochampally silk hails from the town of Boodhan in Andhra Pradesh. This famous silk sarees have intricate motifs, geometric ikat designs and are made of the perfect combination of silk and cotton. These sarees gives a royal look which can be worn at wedding seasons.

10. Bhagalpuri Sarees From Bihar

Bhagalpur Sari from Bhagalpur are made from the Tussar silk or kosa silk from the state of Bihar, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh. India is the second largest producer of tussar silk in the world and the silk is also used for Orissa’s pattachitras and kantha stitches.